The Wayanadu Wilderness and Beyond

Day 1: Bangalore - Wayanadu

     After months of desire, a week of postponement, days of discussion about the untimely rains in Kerala, long hours of work and several minutes of packing, we [Sniley, Dennis (our friends and partners in crime), Jose and I] finally realized our long-awaited holiday. Destination - Wayanadu!

     Woke up by 4 a.m... a quick cuppa tea... freshened up... in the car by 5 a.m... breakfast at Wayanadu by 10 a.m. Edakkal caves, Meenmutty waterfalls and Muthanga wildlife sanctuary - we saw it all - ingane onnum nadannilla ketto... (not really...)

     Reality took quite a different route. So here's the real picture - woke up by 4:30 a.m, chatted over cups of tea. Showered and got ready by 6:30 a.m. Started by 7 a.m... I guess we just wanted to relax.

  Took the short cut to Bannerghatta road and within minutes we were zooming over the N.I.C.E road. The roads to Wayanadu were fantastic. For most of the journey, the i10 [or Teny, as Dennis christened it] was gliding fine. We had our breakfast enroute Mysore, at Adigas. Their outlet on the highway was quite impressive – no way would you miss it. It was interesting to note how a grumbling tummy could rule over any an excited mind. Notice [in the pictures below] how Snils and I cheer up once the tummy is satisfied? Psychology lessons avasanippikkam (that's enough of psychology lessons). Let’s move on…

N.I.C.E Road

Adigas, Mysore Road

Hunger-Free Smiles

     Teny [the i10] was happy and cheerful all the way to Mysore. Mysore kottarathinte chuttum oru pradakshinnam vechittu (skirting around the Mysore palace), we reached the industrial area of Nanjangud. Throughout the journey, that was probably the only place where Teny coughed, grumbled and screeched. Quite a few patches on the road, occasional pot holes and lots of trucks there – past that and Teny was a happy car again. She glided across happily; leaving fields, hills and valleys behind her to enter the forest area of Wayanadu.

     By 2 p.m we were at Sultan Bathery. Passed Assumption Hospital [Pappa had worked there once upon a time] and close to 2:30 p.m, we checked in at Green Mount Homestay, Kalpetta which Jose had already booked for us. For Rs. 1500/- a night, it was quite an impressive room. Spotlessly clean and spacious room with a big hygienic bathroom… I am not exaggerating when I say – bathroomil football kallikaannulla sthalam undaayirunnu! (owing to its size, the bathroom stood a good chance to host a local game of football!) Take a look at the place we were at… [Bathroom photos illa ketto (photos of the bathroom may be kindly excused)].

The Parking Zone

The Homestay

The Room

Please note: If you are the kind who would love the feel of a resort, rather than just a shelter for the night - then Green Mount Homestay may not be your cup of tea. Stream Valley Cottages, I am told, is good in that case.

in the jeep

     We decided to make this completely relaxing so we hired a jeep, which Mr. Martin Lopez [who runs the homestay], gladly arranged for us. Edakkal Caves, we were told, was under renovation so destiny scratched out that must-see spot from our list. The sports shoes that we had so eagerly packed suddenly became a space-consumer. Fate! We were left to choose from Soochipaara Waterfalls, Muthanga Wildlife Sanctuary and Banasura Dam. What's visiting Wayanadu without getting a feel of the forest?!? So, Muthanga wildlife sanctuary it was!

     The fact that the roads were great and the drive was amazing doesn't stop the tummy from reminding you to eat. The reminder also mentioned that we being in North Kerala, the tummy ought to be treated with biriyani [sorry – no photographs there, we were too hungry to be bothered about clicking]. After a sumptuous and quick biriyani at a nearby restaurant, our chauffeur, Babu zoomed across to the sanctuary. It’s needless to say that visiting a natural sanctuary is like the toss of a coin. You may get to see a friend or two from the wild or you may just end up seeing only the trees. However, we discovered something that nobody had ever told us… whether you saw an animal or not, there was no stopping to a certain exciting fear that crept up. After all, we were trespassing into another’s territory.

     It was Rs. 250 to enter the sanctuary. We were accompanied by a guide - Babu again. With the Babus in the lead we ventured into the wild. At first, it was eucalyptus trees and the tribals.  Ee eucalyptus ennu parayumbol, nammal roadsidil kannunna slim and trim marangallepatti alla nyan parayunne (not the slim and trim eucalyptus trees that we get to see by the road) – these were quite prosperous and huge. We also saw a century-adicha chethalputtu (a veteran ant hill)– it was actually a 100 yrs old – at least so we were told!

Eucalyptus Trees

The Tribals

The Veteran Ant Hill

Disclaimer: Since none of us are professional photographers, which translate into no HD cameras in hand, you people have to use some amount of imagination for a clear picture of the forest.

Elephant in the Wild

     “Innu enthenkilum kannil petto?” ("anything interesting that caught your eye today?") our chauffer enquired. Our guide informed that a leopard was spotted sleeping on the branch of a tree that morning. Suddenly, all hopes rose. May be the coin would toss in our favour, after all. After a short while into the forest, thaa varunnu aana (an elephant walked up) in all its majesty! Mid-way through the trail, our guide Babu signaled to our driver Babu to detour us. We didn't really get what that meant. They took a turn and suddenly we were into quite a dense path. Porame nalla dhyryam aannengilum, enthaannenu ariyilla... (Of course, we were all from the brave clan... or were we?) All of a sudden when the green outside brushed past us, we followed what our PT teacher taught us in school – sit erect. “Ivide paambu illayirikum alle chetta”, ("There probably aren't any snakes around, are they?") Sniley asked as casually as she could. The enthusiastic guide was happy to explain, “Ella tharam paambum undu chechy – malam paambu, moorkhan, ellaam!” ("Well of course.. there are all kinds of snakes here - the viper, the cobra - you name it, it's here!") Sniley felt she could do with a stiffer sitting posture [gulp…].  There they showed us an amazing piece of land – a place where the animals came in herds to relax and get a drink of water [we only saw the land – no animals]. It was picture perfect. However, since we were seriously practicing PT lessons, it slipped our minds to click at that point.

     We then took a turn back to the normal route… [Sigh!]. We ventured further in and saw a herd of deer. They were so pretty-looking; spotted or not. Seeing them, we felt comfy again and I asked Jose – “Ivare kandittu aayirikum alle, pandu Jayan paadiyathu – kasturi maan mizhi…” ("These deer must be the inspiration behind the retro mal song - kasturi maan mizhi...") The guide had quite a laugh.  Along the path, there were quite a lot of fallen trees. Our professor Sniley madam had doubts to clear, “Chetta, mazha kaarannam veennu kidakkunna marangallanno ithu?” ("These fallen trees - are they due to the heavy rains?") He, very casually replied that those were the damages done by angry elephants. He then showed us elephant tracks nearby. There we went practicing PT lessons again. He mentioned that the most dangerous being by far had been the elephants.

     The summer trips were the most fruitful ones since people got to see many animals. The flip side was that, the animals would probably be too thirsty to be entertaining guests. We were informed that there were quite a few instances when elephants came racing after the vehicle… people were left in tears – thanking God for the good life that they were just spared. Quite normal… when you think from the elephant’s shoes! Daahichu varandu nikkumbozha, scene pidikan varunnadu – annal oralppom vellam tharuka – athum illa, ennu aanekhu deshyam paranju theerkkaan pattillallo (Could the thirsty elephants possibly vent out more sanely? They can't literally ask their audience for a drink of water, can they?). Next, we got stuck in a rut. I imagined out loud, “Oru karadi ippom varannam, chetta sahayikanno ennum chodichu..!” ("A bear should come out from the wilderness asking if we could do with some help..!") Out of the rut and on our trail back, we saw an amazing sight ever. A big herd of bisons feasting far away! There was no scope for our camera to zoom up that far so all that you readers can do is trust what I am writing. Vishwasam! – athalle ellam?(Keep the faith!) Jose was thrilled...”Aahaha! Entha avanmarude, nilppum theettiyum?!? Ithine ethenkilum mrigam thinnuumo?” ("Wow! Just look at the way they are standing around and feasting?!? Does any of the animals feast on them?") “Pulee!” ("Leopard!") replied Babu. That was it -attention again!

     It was surprising that the deer was always there to soothe us. Just then one of them even performed for us by crossing the road. Oh – they were so adorable.

     Again, our BP dropped to normal and Jose asked, “Ivide myil undo?” ("Are there peacocks here?") Babu confirmed that there were lots and lo behold! Many of them around there. No, they were not the size-zero ones you get to see at the zoo. Nalla urunda, shining mylukal! (Peacocks that were nice and plump, adorned with shining plumes) Babu was all thrilled. He said, “Chettan myilennu paranjathum - myil ethi. Onnu pulee ennu paranju nokku chetta.” ("You merely mentioned the word peacock and there it was before you. Why don't you try saying leopard") Chettan didn’t budge; “Ayyo onnum venda!” ("Bah humbug!") he replied. But then who knows, probably the pulee (leopard) may have been watching us from above…

     On our way back, we noticed that there were a small number of elephants that dwelled among the humans, including a little one, who, we were told, loved playing with the human kids. We enquired about them. Those elephants were the lost and found ones. It was interesting to know that once they got associated with humans, there was no point in them returning to the forest – their herd wouldn't accept them back. The ‘pokanja kolli purathu’ (an old malayalam proverb which literally means 'the matchstick that's burnt out stays out') principle! Purathaakki pindam vekuka (Ritually outcasted) – do they literally do that, I wonder!

     So what did they do there? That was also interesting. Their primary duty was pulling out other elephants that were lost and found in dumps etc. Remember Baywatch?!?

     And so, finally it was time to say good bye to the woods… I wondered how people found any pleasure in poaching… there was an ‘awe’ factor associated with those animals in the wild. 

     They are amazing when they are free…

     After our date with the woods, Babu offered to show us the Jain temple, also known as Pazhassiraja’s hideout. Got quite late - it was closed. As a consolation prize, he took us to another Jain temple – an actual one. No photographs allowed there. No restrictions either. You can go right in and see the deity. Panchaloha vigrahangal (statues of the deity made of a combination of 5 metals)… lamps that were lit… the temple bells… bliss! Chatting with the pujari there was informative. We were surprised to learn that there were several Jain temples there. 400+ Jain families in north Kerala alone – that was quite a number!

     We were dropped back around 8 p.m. Thanked and tipped Babu for the good day that we had. He set off, having given us instructions for the next day. We freshened up, had dinner and retired for the night.

Jose and Dennis with Babu

Supper Time

Good Night

Day 2: Wayanadu to Central Kerala

      Woke up the next day at 5 a.m to the sweet chirping of birds, the cool breeze and a hard working husband. There were a few things he needed to complete. His willing mind had prompted him to complete it the previous night itself, but the weary body took over and hushed him to sleep.

Good Morning

Working Hard

     I went around freshening up. Had a long hot bath… once in a while, it was nice not to worry about what to fix for breakfast, will the maid come on time, when will I reach office today, etc. However, I couldn't help thinking that holidays were treasured and cherished only because of all those days of hard work and toil.

     A few moments later the door bell rang and ta-da - who else but our bubbly little Sniley – fresh and beautiful.

Hum Tum

A Close-Up Moment

     The three of us – Dennis, Sniley and I - went for an early morning walk, leaving Jose in peace to complete his chores. We walked around the town that was just waking up to its daily routines. We asked around, if it were possible to buy honey and thein-nellikka at that hour. Pure honey and thein-nellikka (cooked amla/gooseberry soaked in honey); we were told that those were Wayanadu's specialties. We were advised not to buy it from shops. We were told that getting it from any of the Gandhi gram outlets in Lakkidi was a better bet. Lakkidi, they mentioned was enroute Pookotu Lake which was our next stop for the day. Traditional malayalees that we were, we stopped at a local chaya-kada (road-side tea stall) and had quick bites of kalathappom, vadas and tea. Got back to our room to find a fresh-looking Jose with the laptop shut down – halleluiah! Steaming hot breakfast was served with pipping hot tea… Choodu idiappomvum puttum (steamed noodle-cakes and rice-cakes just off the stove) with kadala curry - in contrast to the pleasant chill outside.

Chaaya... Chaaye (Tea-Time)

Breakfast is Served!

Tea Cheers

     Couple of minutes and a few photographs later… having settled our bill, we were on our way to Pookotu Lake.

Aah... Kozhikodei...Kozhikodei (anyone to Calicut?)

Time to Say Good-Bye

Let's Push Off

For all those interested: The Green Mount Homestay, is owned by Mr. Martin Lopez. If Wayanadu’s on your mind, Green Mount Homestay won’t disappoint you!

Jose and Dennis with Mr. Martin Lopez

4 People

     The ladies took to the wheels while the guys rested at the back. And off we were, counting on Mother Nature for another day of peace and entertainment.

Off We Go...

     Sniley and I always have been great driving partners. She has been an amazing GPRS and takes upon herself a lot of responsibilities. For e.g, regulating the air-conditioner, a good music jockey and most importantly yelling at people who have no road sense [the windows rolled up, of course]. A friend in need is a friend indeed… ha-ha! Anyway, my point was that she reminded me in time, to stop at the Gandhi gram outlet. The car was soon cluttered with bottles of honey, thein-nellikka, medicinal oils, etc.

     A few kilometers and we were at Pookotu Lake. The breeze outside would beat the air conditioning in the car anytime any day. Lovely weather! The entrance fee was a minimal Rs. 10/head. Plastic bottles were a strict no-no. That was the Kerala tourism board for you!

Pookotu Lake

     Getting mesmerized at Pookotu Lake was quite a natural process. No efforts required. The lake lay vast like a mirror for the clouds above. There were huge trees all around the lake. The specialty, we were told, was the fact that all those were flowering trees. It must be quite a sight being there in the month of April and May. There was boating facility and you could also stroll along around the lake. That would be a good 2.5 km walk. It would have been lovely to experience both. Due to the lack of time, we decided to go for boating. We could choose from pedal boats (2-seater or 4-seater) or row boats (self-rowing or one with a rower). No speed boats there so that the life under the water and around the lake may not be disturbed. We decided to go with a row boat that would be rowed for us. Fantastic experience. The serene beauty of the place, the strokes of fresh cool breeze and subtle music of the water against the boat consumed us completely.

The Happy-Go-Lucky

     Fun times were peppered into this serene mood when our boat clashed against another one that was rowed by a bunch of college students. “Ayyo njangallude titanic-inte paint poyi… cash venom… chechyude chiri kandaale ariyam license illennu, evide helmet, evide seat belt” ("Gosh... our titanic's paint is ruined... give us the compensation... aha looks like you people have no license, where's the helmet, where's the seat belt")– the comments went on… Fun! There’s no time like college days. So much of energy and zeal… They did shout out the name of their institution... Sorry boys! It died down a midst our laughter.

     Velvety violet water lilies paddled and had their own fun in the lake - another spectacular treat to the eyes. They were so beautiful and full of life that we quite understood why the ‘aambal poovu’ (water lilies) got popular among poets from time immemorial. There was another interesting lesson that these beauties taught me. To keep your head held high with a lot of dignity and charm, when you are up to the neck in water, with your roots firm and strong – a not-so-easy feature to achieve. Those floating beauties were definitely not for the all-beauties and no-brains.

     Back at the shore, we lingered around for a while taking in as much as we could of the Almighty’s beautiful strokes. We popped in at a small little aquarium that was set up.  After one last glimpse at the beautiful Pookotu Lake, we headed back into our car. The ladies took the back seat this time. Downhill trips are too picturesque…

     A few kilometers downhill we stopped at the Wayanadu View Point. The view was absolutely breath-taking. See it for yourself…

     Teny [the i10] breezed down from the shoulder tops of the mighty hills to the cozy laps of the valleys below. She also seemed all charged up after the dew drop showers and traffic-free roads. We reached Calicut by around 1 p.m. Bobby [my brother] was awaiting us there. We had agreed to pick him up as he was also heading homeward that day. Famished by the time we reached Calicut, we decided to stop for lunch and make it big. Teny was parked in the gardens of the Kadavu resorts – Calicut.

Kadavu Resort & Ayurveda Centre, Calicut

     Set against the backdrop of the backwaters of Malabar, the Kadavu resort was hospitable, luxurious and needless to say, quite a picture! And we ate oh so well… I politely refused soup (I am not very fond of it). However, my hunger built up way faster than the minutes that ticked away. By the time soup was served, my dislike for soup simply vanished into thin air – poor Bobs!

Gimme That Soup

     The photos below are a verdict of the fact that the main course was tucked safely into our tummies as soon as they appeared on the table. In short, vishappu kaarannam main course click cheythilla machu... (hunger having consumed us completely, no pictures of the lunch-spread dude...) So, all the biriyani, the steak and the lasagna is left to your imagination.

     By the time desserts were served, the camera got clicking again…

     Post-lunch, our camera was quite busy capturing various photogenic spots at the resort. While some were interested in the dancing lady, some were on the rocks or at the bar - check out the snaps…

     Started back at 3 p.m… The ladies took to the wheels, leaving the men to jam up behind and take their siesta… According to Dennis, Bobby was a sausage between a bread and a bun ;) Who's the bread and who's the bun? That's up to you to decide.

The Kuttippuram Bridge

     The Kuttippuram Bridge over Bharathapuzha was quite a beautiful sight. There was a small trickle of rain while we crossed that bridge. At Malappuram, we gathered that the small trickle was just a sample piece. For several minutes there, it rained quite heavily. Thankfully, it wasn't so bad that you couldn't see the road. So, we moved on with our jokes, laughter and music. Some where after Guruvayoor, I think it was Triprayar, we felt it was high time that we stretched out and had a coffee break. While Sniley constantly practiced how to say Triprayar, which her tongue wouldn't quite oblige to, we stopped at this boat-shaped restaurant. The name of the place has slipped my mind. Cute place. The tea and coffee were also fine.

     Jose and Dennis took over the driver and GPRS positions, respectively. By 9 p.m, the back-seaters were quite drained off and lulled away to sleep. We were home [Poravanthaattil House, Thalappara] by 10 p.m. Jimmy [my brother-in-law] welcomed us with his usual sense of humour. Pappa asked after our journey before retiring to bed. We quickly freshened up, had good home-made dinner – thanks to mummy while highlights of our trip flowed out at random. Soon it was time for the much-awaited Zzzzzzzzzzzzz. As I curled up in bed, I felt that the greatest gift God has given mankind was sleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep.

Day 3: In and around the districts of Kottayam

     I forgot to mention at the beginning of this travelogue that this entire journey triggered off owing to a common friend’s wedding invitation. The wedding was at Kanjirapally, Kerala. So, the first half of day 3 was all about getting dressed for the wedding. However, due to the tremendous amount of travelling that we had done by then, waking up took a great deal of time and effort – yep… we overslept! [We could still sleep though]

     Forced ourselves out of bed, rushed and helped mummy out in the kitchen. Dennis came to the kitchen to take a quick pic. Now, you know why Jimmy’s cooking… Steaming hot appams, chicken dry and egg stew were the items on mummy’s menu. To add to the flavour, breakfast was peppered with further stories, gossip and news. Bobby left to Changanasserry [my maiden home] post-breakfast.

Who's Cookin'?

     By the time we were ready and out, we were, I must confess, horribly late. And in all the rush we forgot to click pictures. Now that the photographs are not there, I must quite confidently tell you that, Sniley and I looked ravishing in our saris… he he!

     By the time we reached, the reception had already quite begun [or must I say – advanced quite a bit]. Jory [our friend who was the bride] looked stunning. We apologized and congratulated. She introduced us to her 1-hour old hubby – Romy [impressive guy!]. Talked around for a while, before we settled down for lunch. The spread was mouth-watering and spectacular. We thanked our stars that we made it there. There was everything from pork to fish. Wish I could ask her if they planned on throwing a party again… ;) Aunty and uncle [Jory's parents] were very happy to see us there. Post-lunch they introduced us to the entire family. The ambience was so warm that we were truly glad that we made it for her wedding.

     It was past 3 p.m by the time we left the wedding crowd. Popped in to my maternal aunt’s place for a quick 15-minute visit. Another 5 km drive from there and we were at Thottathil House, Ponkunnam [Dennis’ place]. We were greeted by uncle and aunty [Dennis’ parents], Diana [his sister – she was on vacation from the US of A] and most importantly the star of the home, Kate. She is Dennis’ 2-year-old niece. Be careful not to call her Kate when you meet this adorable doll of a child. She’ll sternly tell you that she is Cathy.

Call me Cathy

     After a whole bunch of excitement and settling down, I excused myself to change into a salwar suit. It was after all this while that our camera sense caught up again. While Jose chatted with uncle and Dennis busy with Kate, Sniley showed me around her sasural (in-laws place) with a lot of enthusiasm. Warm and nice place, set in a serene backdrop.

     Aunty soon served us with refreshing cups of tea and yummy snacks. We then left Sniley and Dennis to enjoy with their folks and started off to Changanasserry (my maiden-home).

She didn't know we were in the frame too...

     It was party-time at Moosaruparambil House, Changanasserry. A family get-together had been planned. There was a dinner being hosted in honour of my newly-wed cousin Joseph [Sijo] and Minu. The whole family getting together was always a treat in itself… Mummy had an impressive spread. Noodles soup, sausages and fish fingers for starters, bread, butter chicken and mutton biriyani for the main course and caramel custard with jelly toppings for the dessert.

     As always, we had to have a game of Bingo. Jose excused himself and went to bed. One of us had to be well awake to drive the next day. The game and a lot of gossips later, I too snoozed off tight.

Day 4: Road Trip to Bangalore via Kumily

     Jose and I were ready and saying our byes and see you soons to all the family by 7 in the morning. Within 45 mins we were at Dennis’s place. We were surprised to hear that Cathy baby was actually waiting for the blue car to arrive… In a few minutes, the byes, hugs and see you soons took positions.

     We were then on our way back to Bangalore. The highlights of return journeys are usually only gossip, chit-chats, food and music. But not this one!

This time, we had decided to take the Ponkunnam-Kuttikaanam-Kumily-Cambam-Theni-Dindigul-Salem-Bangalore route to get back. This very drive was a tour package in itself. Take a peek…

Uphill from Ponkunnam to Kuttikaanam:

     Before we go to the Kuttikanaam to Kumily part. I must tell you about this place that we happened;to stop for breakfast. The board read Misty Mountain Plantation Resorts, Kuttikaanam. We were not too sure if we would get breakfast there. Once, it was confirmed, we jumped out and what we saw was amazing. Once we placed our order, we went around clicking as if our camera was hungry for photos…

     I’d like to share some information we had gathered about Misty Mountains. The entire resort was about 600 acres of land. The facilities there were quite numerous. For accommodation, there was a cottage, hill-view rooms and garden-view rooms. There were three natural waterfalls within this vicinity. You can go canoeing, fishing, trekking, etc... – all within the resort premises itself! Now for the best part – the room rent, we were told ranges between Rs. 1000/- to Rs. 4000/- per room/cottage. No extra fee for any other facility. Since, the area is quite huge; you would need to hire a jeep to take you around. So, all you pay extra is the jeep charges and maybe for the food. By the time we got back into the car, we had mentally, almost confirmed our next holiday spot. Check out mistyresort.com for more information.. And no, neither do I work there nor does it belong to anybody whom I know. The information was sheer knowledge-transfer.

     Tea estates dominated over the next segment of our journey – Kuttikaanam to Kumily. But it was not the only sight. Kuttikaanam Marian College among other sights was very much worth the camera. Moreover, Anilachechy [my sister-in-law] had worked there a long time back. Rain drops tapped at our windows by the time we reached Kumily. Tamil Nadu welcomed us with showers of joy. So, here comes the pictures…

Marian College, Kuttikanam

Kumily Check-Post

     Crossed the Kumily check-post to start the downhill journey. The sights were amazing but the camera was tucked away safely as it was raining quite a bit. Remember – no HD cameras. Ace photographer Sniley Varghese then retrieved the camera enroute Theni.

     We had a decent lunch at a place called the Travancore Residency enroute Dindigul. Snils and I jumped behind the wheels post-lunch. It’s interesting to know that enroute Dindigul, you could see the mountains of Kodaikanal along the parallel road. Need I even mention how mind-blowing the sights were? It was so close to the eyes but yet too far away to touch…

     A few kilometers after that we hit the highway. By then our camera was too exhausted and so were we ladies. The guys took over and we tucked ourselves to sleep. Woke up at Salem for tea. Dennis took to the wheels with Jose as GPRS from Salem.

     We were back home by 9:30 p.m. Weary, tired and hungry and sleepy. Had our showers and a quick dinner which we had parceled along the way. Hitting the bed was instantaneous. Sleep took over in a jiffy – there definitely is no place like home.